Women’s cargo pants: fit, pockets and proportion

Cargo pants used to come in one shape: straight, slightly baggy, and cut for a man’s hips. Now there are high-rise, wide, slim, barrel and parachute cuts, in everything from heavy cotton to fluid lyocell. That’s good news, but it means more ways to get the fit wrong, and the pockets, more than anything, change how a pair sits on you.

Start at the waist

The rise decides most of what follows.

High rise, at or above the navel, is the easiest to wear and suits most figures. It lengthens the leg, holds a tucked top in place and keeps the thigh pockets at a sensible height.

Mid rise is more relaxed, and often sits better under a cropped top or on a short torso.

Low rise cargos hang from the hips and have a looser, streetwear feel. They need a slim belt or a precise fit, or they slide down.

Sit down to check the waistband. A stiff cotton waistband with no stretch will dig in over a long day; an elasticated back or a drawstring waist is kinder.

Pick the leg shape

• Straight: the classic. Works with trainers, boots and loafers, and with almost any top.
• Wide: looks best high-rise and long, with the hem nearly covering the shoe. Balance it with a fitted top.
• Slim or tapered: tidier, and easier under a long jacket or coat. Often finished with a cuffed ankle.
• Barrel: fuller at the knee and narrower at the ankle. A fashion shape; keep the top simple and the shoes substantial.
• Parachute: light nylon, very wide, gathered at the ankle with a toggle. Casual and easy in warm weather.

Where the pockets sit matters

The thigh pockets are the point of cargo pants, and they’re also what makes a pair flattering or not.

A pocket placed around the middle of the thigh keeps the leg looking long. A pocket placed low, near the knee, cuts the leg in two. Check in the mirror from the side: if the pocket sits on the widest part of your thigh, it will make it look wider.

Flat patch pockets lie close to the leg. Bellows pockets, with pleated sides that expand, hold more but add bulk, especially when they’re full. For a slimmer line, choose flat pockets or pockets set into the side seam.

Whatever the style, don’t load them up. A phone in a thigh pocket swings when you walk and drags the trousers out of shape.

Fabric

• Cotton twill: the traditional cargo cloth. Sturdy, softens with washing, holds its shape.
• Ripstop: woven with a grid of stronger threads that stops tears spreading. Light and tough, with a slightly technical look.
• Lyocell and viscose blends: soft and fluid, they drape instead of standing away from the body. Good for wide cargos you want to wear somewhere smarter.
• Nylon: light and quick-drying, used for parachute styles. Very thin nylon can be noisy.
• Stretch blends: a little elastane makes a slim cargo far more comfortable.

Sizing and alterations

Cargos are often generous through the hips and thigh. Size for your waist and seat, and check that the crotch doesn’t hang too low; a dropped crotch looks deliberate on some styles and simply messy on others.

Hemming is a simple job on plain-hemmed cargos. If the pair has an elastic cuff or a toggle at the ankle, shortening it means taking the cuff off and putting it back, which costs more, so buy the right length if you can. For wide legs, the hem should graze the top of your shoe. For cuffed and tapered styles, the cuff should sit at the ankle bone.

How to wear them

The rule that works nearly every time: if the cargo is loose, keep the top fitted, and the other way round.

• Casual: a fitted T-shirt or vest, trainers, a denim or bomber jacket.
• Smarter: a fine knit or a crisp shirt tucked in, a belt, loafers or ankle boots, and a cargo in a dark colour and a fluid fabric.
• Cold weather: a long coat over slim cargos and boots.

Olive, khaki, black and stone are the easiest colours. Black cargos in a fabric with some drape will pass in more places than you’d expect, including plenty of offices. For more outfit ideas, see how to wear cargo pants.