How to wear cargo pants, from weekends to the office

Cargo trousers come from military uniforms of the late 1930s and the Second World War, when big pockets on the thigh carried maps, ammunition and field dressings. That history still shows. Worn badly, cargos look as if you’ve wandered off a campsite. Worn well, they’re some of the most comfortable and practical trousers you can own, and they work in more places than people expect.

Fit first

Most bad cargo outfits are a fit problem, not a style problem.

• The leg. A straight or gently tapered leg looks deliberate. A very baggy leg that pools around the shoes looks like the wrong size. Wide cargos can look good, but the width should be the point and the length still right.
• The seat. Cargos shouldn’t sag at the back. If there’s a pouch of loose cloth under the seat, go down a size or try a slimmer cut.
• The length. No more than a slight break on the shoe. Cargos worn long and crumpled at the ankle turn scruffy fastest. A tapered cargo can be a little shorter and end at the ankle.
• The pockets. The thigh pocket should sit around the middle of the thigh, roughly where your hand falls with your arm relaxed. Pockets near the knee make the legs look shorter.

Choose the pocket for the job

Not all cargo pockets are the same.

Bellows pockets have folded sides that expand as you fill them. The most practical, and the most bulky.

Flat patch pockets are sewn flat to the leg. They hold less but keep the outline clean, which makes them better for everyday and smarter wear.

Slim or hidden cargo pockets, sewn into the side seam or cut almost flush, give you the cargo look with the least bulk.

Whichever you have, keep them mostly empty when you want to look sharp. A phone or a wallet, not both, and nothing heavy.

Colours

The traditional colours are traditional for a reason.

• Olive is the original and still the most useful. It goes with navy, white, grey, black and earth tones.
• Khaki and stone are lighter and more summery.
• Black is the easiest to dress up. In a smooth twill, black cargos can stand in for chinos.
• Navy is less common, and quietly smart.

Camouflage and bright colours are fun but narrow. They need everything else in the outfit to be plain.

Weekends and streetwear

This is the cargo’s home ground. A relaxed or straight cargo in heavy cotton twill goes with:

• a plain or graphic T-shirt, a hoodie or a sweatshirt,
• chunky trainers or skate shoes,
• an overshirt, a bomber, a denim jacket or a work jacket.

Volume below with a boxy top works here, as long as the proportions look chosen. If both halves are oversized, add one fitted piece, such as a cropped jacket or a slim knit, so the outfit keeps a shape.

Smart casual, and some offices

Cargos can go further than people think, with three changes.

1. A cleaner cargo: slim or straight, with flat or hidden pockets, in a smooth twill rather than a rugged canvas, in black, navy or olive.
2. Smarter shoes: leather trainers, loafers, chelsea boots or derbies.
3. A more refined top: a fine merino or cotton knit, an Oxford shirt, a polo with a proper collar, or an unstructured blazer in a textured wool or cotton-linen.

The contrast is what makes it work. A cargo with a crisp shirt and loafers tells people you chose the trousers on purpose. Most offices with a relaxed dress code will accept it, though it’s worth checking before a meeting with someone you want to impress.

Outdoors

For walking and travel, the practical details matter more than the look: a quick-drying fabric, stretch or a gusset for movement, pockets that close. Light nylon and polyester cargos are covered in lightweight cargo pants for travel, and heavy work wear in tactical cargo pants.

Outdoors, function and looks point the same way. Trousers that fit and don’t bulge with gear move better and look better.

Shoes and hems

Cargos with an elastic or drawcord cuff gather at the ankle and suit trainers and boots. Straight hems work with everything. With high boots, let the hem fall over the boot rather than tucking it in, unless you’re actually walking through mud.